Popular from the 30s to 50s, then in the 80s to 90s, the double-breasted jacket has since been forgotten. Too outdated? too loaded ? Fashion phenomena are things that sometimes cannot be explained, the only thing certain is that they work in cycles and come and go incessantly. It is therefore not surprising to see the double-breasted jackets brought up to date over the past two years. It’s part of that preppy wave which has been sweeping in recent years. So brands and designers are having fun and today offer this type of cuts in many variations, in suits as well as blazers. Because the crossed buttoning does not suit all silhouettes and all styles, here is a file addressing the main points to wear it at best.
Double breasted, quésaco?
In the language of clothing, the term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket with wide lapels and two parallel columns of buttons; unlike single-breasted, which has a narrower lapel and a single column of buttons. For most of today’s crossover jackets, one of the two button columns is only decorative, while the other is functional. It also has two buttons, placed symmetrically on the outside of the torso, supposed to allow a jacket to be closed in both directions. To reinforce the closure, an interior button is usually attached to the lining, always on both sides. Finally, the double-breasted jacket most of the time has a pointed lapel.
In the end, never dare the devil because it is a difficult piece to master. If you are feeling cramped, uncomfortable, and the jacket is puckering all over the place, then it’s not fitting. It is best to trust your eyes, or those of your companion to ensure that the visual effect is not too offensive.
The double-breasted suit
The double-breasted suit was once considered the standard of the formal, between the 30s and 50s which remain in common memories as a period during which the man was elegant by definition. It is particularly in this perspective that today’s double-breasted suits are reinterpreted. They are therefore considered to be very elegant. Usually it is found in 6 or 4 button versions, and it is NEVER worn with a waistcoat. It is easy to find it in several different patterns (striped and checked). If we take this option, we will try to combine it with a plain shirt and tie, because the suit will then be quite impressive.
Be careful, because the double-breasted costume is really a jerk! There is nothing worse than a jacket without an outfit, and you can immediately see if it does not fit its wearer. Because the pressure points at the level of the buttons are really very marked and at the level of the belly which quickly gives rise to more than unsightly folds. The ready-to-wear models are becoming rare, the temptation will be great and it will be necessary to refrain from acquiring a piece which will certainly be pretty but which will not suit. Otherwise, the best is to turn to tailor-made .
The double-breasted blazer is the one you wear mismatched. Like any blazer, it is slightly shorter than the suit jacket and offers versions with more original details. Generally, these are golden buttons, in reference to its marine origins.
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